Algarve, the last Moorish stronghold

We had planned an ambitious conquest of the southern region of Portugal called the Algarve, starting from Albufeira (A), Lagos (B), Vila do Bispo (C), then a little off-roading to get some pretty spectacular views of the coast (D), then back south to Cape of St. Vincent (E), the southwesternmost tip of continental Europe (fondly called the "end of the world" before anyone knew there was something else out there), to watch the sunset. In one day.

Naturally, that didn't happen. Blame it on my twisted ankle, the horrible Lisbon traffic, or the ambitiousness of the plan. I like to overplan.

It was a three hour drive through mostly plains, farmlands and gently rolling hills. We spotted some small towns and villages along the way, but for the most part it looked pretty deserted. Well, some curious research led me to discover that Portugal's total population is around 10.7  million, according to the CIA World Factbook. The entire country is only slightly smaller than the state of Indiana, which has 6.4 million people. Imagine that.

From 711 to 1249, the Algarve was ruled by the Moors. The word is derived from Al-Gharb (meaning "the West") which meant it was the western edge of the Islamic empire. The region was the last Moorish stronghold until it was captured by the Christians in 1249.

February is a slow time for the Algarve, which sees many tourists in the summer for its gorgeous beaches, palm trees, and warm waters. Lots of high rise condo developments throughout for sun-seeking northern Europeans, and vibrant night scene I hear, though some places have managed to keep their small town charm intact.

In Albufeira, we randomly drove around a residential neighborhood in search of beach access - to actually see the dramatic coastlines I'd seen so many times in pictures. We found Praia dos Arrifes, a beautiful, sheltered cove with the most crystal clear waters and interesting rock formations. Absolutely breathtaking.

Albufeira itself is a small town of whitewashed buildings and Moorish influenced architecture. The homes, many of them perched on hills, had the tile roofs and chimneys characteristic of Moorish influence. We had open-air lunch at a fabulous Portuguese restaurant (I had squid like I've never seen before) right by the Albufeira marina.

After lunch, we drove to Lagos, an ancient town with over 2,000 years of historical significance. It was the capital of the Algarve from 1576-1756.

Prince Henry the Navigator spent most of his time in the Lagos (and even built a school of navigation further west in Sagres). It was in Lagos that many Portuguese ships set off to explore the world. It was also here in Lagos that the first African slaves entered Europe. The building where the first slave markets were held still stands today.

History trivia: Lagos is also the name of the most populated city in Nigeria. That settlement was named as such by Portuguese explorers that sailed from Lagos, Portugal.

We saw quite a few lively British visitors but otherwise the town was pretty quiet. Lagos had a nice mix of the old structures and new development. We walked along the palm tree-lined main avenue, savored the isolated, pristine beaches, checked out the fishing boats, and explored the remains of the walled town that was built by the Moors.

Pictured above is the Forte da Ponta da Bandeira, a fortress built in late 17th century as part of a defense system for Lagos.

Sadly, we were not able to find any grotto tour operators at the time. There are beautiful sea caves and cliffs that could only be explored off-shore. But we did get to see a bit more rock formations toward Ponte de Piedade.

By this time, the sun was on its way down, and we were definitely going to miss that sunset at Cape of St. Vincent, so we just decided to take it easy and enjoy the warm weather and relaxed atmosphere.

Exploring Lisbon's old world charm

I’ve read many traveler reviews that wrote off Lisbon as merely a poor, dirty city. Yes, there are seedy and grungy parts (like any city in the world) but I think Lisbon possesses an old world charm – and an incredible place in history.

Here I spend a little time talking about Lisbon's history (at least through the middle ages) because it provides an insight to the meaning of its many buildings and monuments.

Lisbon has been inhabited since pre-historic times. It eventually came under Roman rule for 200 years, followed by Moorish rule for nearly 400 years. Lisbon was taken from the Moors in 1147 as part of the Christian Reconquest of the Iberian peninsula. Portuguese maritime exploration began in the early 15th century in search of alternative trade routes because the Ottoman Empire had blocked off traditional routes through Europe. By the 16th century, Lisbon had become an important trading center for all the spices, textiles and other goods brought back from Africa, India, the Far East and Brazil.

Unfortunately, Lisbon's grandness was short-lived. An earthquake in 1755 destroyed the city's infrastructure and killed a huge chunk of its population. Can you believe this happened:

Eighty-five percent of Lisbon's buildings were destroyed, including famous palaces and libraries, as well as most examples of Portugal's distinctive 16th-century Manueline architecture. Several buildings that had suffered little earthquake damage were destroyed by the subsequent fire ... The Royal Ribeira Palace, which stood just beside the Tagus river...was destroyed by the earthquake and tsunami. Inside, the 70,000-volume royal library as well as hundreds of works of art, including paintings by Titian, Rubens, and Correggio, were lost. The royal archives disappeared together with detailed historical records of explorations by Vasco da Gama and other early navigators.

Following the earthquake, downtown Lisbon was rebuilt differently - this time using broad squares, grid-patterned streets and neoclassical buildings that is now seen in today's Baixa district.

Flash-forward to 2011. Our base camp was in Baixa. From there, we began our uphill trek to Alfama, the oldest district in Lisbon.

The air was damp with a salty breeze coming in from the Tejo River. Early in the morning, the streets were quiet except for the occasional ramblings of the trams, the sound of the church bells tolling, and the flapping of seagulls.
    
Cobblestone sidewalks that hugged narrow streets.

Cable car tracks and wires cut through the neighborhood to make way for the trams.

Skinny houses and apartment buildings with lovely orange tile roofs.

Clothes tied onto balcony grills, fluttering in the wind. Crumbling and peeling facades covered in mossy growth.

Building exteriors adorned with azulejos - blue painted tiles that depict cultural and historical aspects of Lisbon and Portugal.

We stopped to peek inside inside the Sé Cathedral, the oldest church in Lisbon. Built in 1147 following the reconquest, it has since has survived multiple earthquakes and fires. It really does look old.

Crowning the highest point in Lisbon is the Castelo de São Jorge (Castle of St. George). The Moors built it in the 11th century to house military troops and to serve as a last-ditch fortress in the event of an attack. After 1147, the castle became the residence of Portuguese royalty...until the earthquake. The castle has several towers, ramparts, false doors and traitor gates, expansive courtyards, and cobbled paths. And of course, it commanded magnificent views of the city and the Tejo River.

The museum is worth checking out because you can see archaeological artifacts from times past, and even see a computer-generated model of what the castle looked like and was used for during the Moorish period.

After enjoying a panoramic view of the city, we headed back down to explore. Tram 28 will take you through a scenic route of the city, but it's most enjoyable when you're walking it.

We saw bits and pieces of Portuguese life in the little things, in places where English was not required.

We passed residents going about their everyday life - one carrying a crate of fresh fruit to his store, another sweeping his alley clean; sat on the steps of an unknown church alongside kids hanging out during break time; men and women in suits talking on their cellphones on cobbled sidewalks.

We perused through antique books and pencil sketches of Lisbon in a couple small bookstores in Bairro Alto.

Grabbed a quick lunch at a small, forgotten sandwich shop in Alfama. Bought pastel de nata (egg custard treat) from a hole-in-the-wall bakery and ate them at the Miraduouro de Santa Luzia (which has a nice view of the river and the area's brightly colored houses).

We trekked up hilly streets to find pockets of quiet neighborhoods with great miradouros (viewpoints), then descended to the bustling areas of traffic jams with cars honking incessantly. Went through some seedy areas with lots of graffiti. We met the occasional beggar - one of them tried to get our attention by speaking in three different languages.

We paid the 5 euros to go up in the famous Elevador de Santa Justa, which connects Baixa to Bairro Alto. Up the elevator, then up a skinny, spiral staircase. It had great views of the castle, the surrounding neighborhood and the river. Definitely worth it.
 

Even though all the guidebooks say English is widely spoken here, we encountered many people who spoke little to no English. I spoke very basic Portuguese and picked up just enough from the locals to make easy transactions.

Despite my linguistic ineptitude, the locals were very kind and seemed to appreciate the effort. (I only broke out “Fala ingles?” at the cabbies, which is another story.)

We didn't get the Lisboa Card (which would've made transportation much easier) so we spent a lot of time being confused with which train to take and how the ticketing system worked.

After figuring that out, we hopped onto a train to Belem, a suburb half an hour west of Lisbon. There we visited some of the famous monuments built in honor of the Age of Discovery.

The Monasterio de los Jeronimos (Jeronimos Monastery) is considered the pinnacle of Manueline architecture. Its construction was ordered by King Manuel I in honor of Vasco de Gama when he successfully returned from his voyage to India. Construction began in 1502 and it was funded by a tax on spices brought back from the east. It took 50 years to complete. The monastery is a treasure - lots of intricate carvings around doorways, azulejos on some of the walls, arched cloisters leading to a courtyard, airy, vaulted ceilings and stained glass windows. Vasco de Gama's tomb rests in this place, too.

Nearby is the 100-foot Torre de Belem (Belem Tower), built right by the mouth of the Tagus River before it meets the ocean. It was used to defend Lisbon and also considered to be the starting point for many sailors heading out to explore the world. Facing the river is a statue of Our Lady of Safe Homecoming as a symbol to protect these seafaring men. Many years later it would be used as a political prison for the king's enemies.

Both structures are decorated in Manueline style, which have a lot of nautical carvings like corals, algae, ropes, cables and ships.

Across the street from the monastery, along the river, is the massive 170-ft. Monument to Discoveries, which was originally built in 1940 for the Portuguese World Fair and then rebuilt with concrete in 1960 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of the death of Prince Henry the Navigator, sponsor of the Portuguese explorations. The monument was carved into the shape of a ship, and the people depicted on both sides of this monument include navigators, scientists, mathematicians, missionaries, and royalty who were considered heroes of that time. We didn't get to go into the museum inside, but it's worth a visit if you want to learn about Lisbon's history and get some pretty awesome views of the river and nearby neighborhoods.

Being the geek that I am, what I found cool as well was the world map mosaic on the pavement next to the monument, indicating the routes taken by the explorers and the places they discovered.

I absolutely loved Lisbon - for its temperate climate, fascinating architecture, and absolutely rich and interesting history. There are so many other things about this place that are worth noting, so this is just something to whet your appetite. I personally love reading about the history of exploration in general so being here was like being like a kid in a candy store!

Toledo, the city of three cultures

A mere 30 minutes away from Madrid, through the plains of the Castile-La Mancha, lies the historic walled city of Toledo. Located on a hilltop surrounded by the Tagus River, the old city looks majestically imposing from the outside, and proves to be culturally rich on the inside.

Toledo was the capital of Spain until the Moors conquered it in the 8th century. For nearly 500 years of Moorish rule, Toledo flourished as a cosmopolitan city where Moors, Christians and Jews co-existed in harmony. Hence the term "the city of three cultures." This melding of cultures is most obvious with the presence of a mosque, a church and a synagogue within the city.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is perfectly described as such: "Successively a Roman municipium, the capital of the Visigothic Kingdom, a fortress of the Emirate of Cordoba, an outpost of the Christian kingdoms fighting the Moors and, in the 16th century, the temporary seat of supreme power under Charles V, Toledo is the repository of more than 2,000 years of history. Its masterpieces are the product of heterogeneous civilizations in an environment where the existence of three major religions – Judaism, Christianity and Islam – was a major factor."

Walking into the city felt like trip back to the medieval ages. The entrances are flanked by stone archways, bridges and wall remains. At the north entrance is the new Puerta de Bisagra, which is of Moorish origin but built in 1559 sporting the emperor's coat of arms. After entering, you'll see the walls and towers of the old Puerta de Bisagra (pictured on the right), which is the only remaining Moorish gate in the city.

Visiting on a Monday - when most things were closed - probably wasn't the best idea, but that was all we had. We hiked up the winding cobbled roads up to Plaza de Zocodover (the main square), past the imposing Alcázar fortress (a former Roman palace, now a library and a museum), and drank in the vista and the steep gorge and river below.

We made it to the Catedral de Toledo, considered the masterpiece of High Gothic. Incredible detailed carvings on the outside, and jaw-dropping stained glass windows, high ceilings and chapels on the inside. We were awestruck by the abundance of gold (check out this 500-pound, 10-foot-high, 15th century gilded monstrance!), and geeked out on the Chapter House featuring portraits of all Spanish archbishops to present day. We couldn't take photos inside, so go take a look. (We wanted to respect the rules here, even amidst many other rude tourists that would surreptitiously snap a photo from under their jackets. Not that we would've done it justice anyway.)

During siesta, we purposely got ourselves lost within the residential neighborhood's narrow alleys. Up and down hilly streets we went. I felt like an intruder every time we passed by locals because that area was so...un-touristy. Within the narrow alleys we found many gift shops selling swords, knives, ceramics, etc. Completely invisible if one doesn't wander off the main drag. How in the world would tourists ever find these shops?!

By the way, Toledo has been the sword-making capital of the world since medieval times. Also, Toledo is considered the world's largest producer of damascene ware. Damascene is the ancient Moorish art of decorating non-precious metals with gold. These are not on the cheap side, and only rightly so.

On food: Found an empty restaurant just around the corner from the cathedral. Toledo is famous for roast meats and stews like roast lamb, roast pig, and partridge stew. I had  chicken asado (roasted chicken) and it was literally half a chicken. My husband had a stew with all sorts of unrecognizable bits (innards, perhaps). They're also known for marzipan, a sweet treat made of almond paste and different types of sugars.

On our hike back down to the train station, we enjoyed a late afternoon sun-drenched panoramic view of modern Toledo beyond the historic walls.

All in all, Toledo has the most fascinating history, drop dead gorgeous views, and it's small enough that you can walk the entire city in a day. I think we may have walked about 10-12 miles total on this trip. We were completely wiped out and slept through the train ride back to Madrid.

Magnificent Madrid

It's no secret that we're big fans of "active" vacations. Our vacation to Europe was no exception. In February, we spent 10 full days visiting Madrid, Toledo, Lisbon, the Algarve and Barcelona - in that order.

Let me begin with this - February is a wonderful time to visit Spain and Portugal. Probably not the best time for beach lounging and water sports, but a great time to explore the city and cultural life without the summer crowds. We didn't see any American tourists in Madrid and Lisbon. There were a lot of Japanese tourists in Toledo and Barcelona. There were British and northern European visitors in the Algarve. Yet overall, we felt like we had these cities all to ourselves. We stuck out like a sore thumb in the Metro. There was hardly a line to get into the museums. The parks and restaurants were pretty much dominated by the locals. Or maybe we just chose a different experience.

In Madrid, we stayed at the Hotel Regina, a three-star hotel with five-star service, perfectly situated by the Sevilla Metro stop. It's a short walking distance to everywhere in the historic part of the city - Puerto del Sol, Plaza Mayor, the Palacio Real de Madrid (Royal Palace of Madrid), Buen Retiro Park, and the Paseo del Prado area that is home to the three major museums - the Prado, Museo Nactional Centreo de Arte Reina Sofia, and Thyssen-Bornemsza.

On a lovely warm Sunday afternoon, everyone was out and about. Plaza Mayor was teeming with students, couples, and families alike. The plaza was filled with street artists - an accordion player, a soap bubble blower, a SpongeBob mascot, a glass artist, and painters selling their work, to name a few.

Just outside Plaza Mayor is the Mercado de San Miguel, a covered market where you can buy fresh fruits and vegetables, cheeses, nuts, wine, fresh flowers, and Jamón Ibérico (Iberian ham). It looked like a place to see and be seen, jam packed with lively locals perched on bar stools or standing up, having tapas and wine for lunch.

There are plenty of public spaces in the city, all within reasonable walking distance of each other. On a Tuesday afternoon, Buen Retiro Park was filled with families, teenagers and older adults - strolling, lounging on the benches, reading the newspaper, paddling around the lake.

We were astounded at the huge number of locals just hanging out in the plazas and the park in the middle of the day. You certainly don't see that in the United States. Well, the owner of a small Italian restaurant (where we had dinner one night) shared with us that Spain has over 4 million unemployed people, a million of which are in Madrid. I guess that explains all the folks out and about. He said life was especially hard for those in the food services sector - a waiter may earn around €1,000 a month, €600 of which goes toward rent. (After additional research, found that Spain has the highest unemployment rate in the industrialized world - currently around 20 percent.)

On food: We'd have small servings of paella and then a variety of tapas like croquettes, smoked salmon, manchego cheese, Iberian ham - washed down with some sangria. Then we'd stroll around the city and stumble upon a random bakery for a ham and cheese pastry. We'd have gelato, fruit tarts and chocolate croissants for breakfast, lunch, dinner. I became addicted to cafe con leche throughout the trip.

Madrid is both historic and modern - a bustling city with grand buildings, ornate architecture, and narrow alleys. Everything looks especially beautiful at night with illuminated historic buildings, fountains, and arches. We've walked its streets both day and night - and we can safely say the place never sleeps.

The only home of throwed rolls

Sikeston, a small town in the "boot heel" of southeastern Missouri, is an unlikely place for tourism. But if you happen to be driving down Interstate 55 toward Memphis, you're probably already craving some good ol' comfort food. So consider having lunch at Lambert's Cafe.

As "The Only Home of Throwed Rolls," Lambert's delivers true to word - a guy comes around yelling "Hot rolls!" with a southern twang and literally throws a piping hot bread roll your way. You can see my thumb in the picture as I tried to catch and take a shot at the same time. The roll bounced on my shoulder before landing on my arm. Shortly after, a parade of servers come around and serve a variety of "pass arounds" of fried okra, fried potatoes, macaroni and tomatoes, black eyed peas, and sorghum and honey. Yummy. If you can still eat a full meal after all that, more power to you. We barely finished ours.

A slice of the Mediterranean on the Channel Islands

The Channel Islands consist of eight islands off the southern coast of California. Five of them (Anacapa, Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, San Miguel and Santa Rosa) are part of Channel Islands National Park.

The one hour ferry ride from Oxnard to Santa Cruz was mostly through a thick blanket of fog, high winds and six-foot waves. I was in the middle of a nap (to avoid nausea) when suddenly our ferry slowed down for a thrilling sight - a massive pod of dolphins (roughly 500+ of them) gliding alongside us. Apparently they like riding the wake of the boat...kind of like surfing. Having never seen such a superpod in my entire life, I was one of many on board that squealed like a child in delight. We saw the dolphins again on our return trip the next day.

Santa Cruz island is 22 miles long and 2-6 miles wide. Twenty-four percent of it is owned by the National Park Service, and 76 percent owned by the Nature Conservancy. It is home to unique plants and animals, valleys, sheer cliffs, and the Painted Cave, one of the world's largest and deepest sea caves (and you can kayak into them). According to the NPS, the area has a Mediterranean-type climate that exists in only five regions in the world (parts of California, along the Mediterranean Sea, central Chile, parts of southwestern Western and South Australia, and the southwestern Cape region of South Africa). That means cool, wet winters and hot, dry summers.

When we visited in early October, the soil, stream bed and majority of plants were scorched dry. The ridges were barren but there were patches of green bushes and some trees around the Scorpion Valley campgrounds. Despite the lack of lush vegetation at the time, Santa Cruz was a picture of desolate beauty. It seemed open, yet mysterious at the same time.

Make sure to hike earlier in the day before the scenic overlooks get covered in fog - that's what happened to us at the Potato Harbor overlook. Fog rolled into the valley in the late afternoon and early evening, and strong winds whipped our tent in the middle of the night. Fortunately we remembered to stake down the tent!

We were excited to have spotted wildlife endemic only to the Channel Islands - the Channel Island Fox, native only to six of the eight islands. He was about the size of a large kitty. Later that night, scampering near our tent was the rare Channel Islands Spotted Skunk, endemic to only two islands.

The next day, we trekked across the island from Scorpion Anchorage to Smuggler's Cove (8 miles round trip). The landscape was dry and there was absolutely zero shade against the sun (so bring water). Interestingly enough there's some vegetation at Smuggler's Cove and the ranch nearby - flower bushes, citrus trees and walnut trees (with some seriously gigantic black birds snacking on walnuts). We stopped here for lunch before heading back to catch the ferry.

One night just wasn't enough - we wished we had several more days in Santa Cruz. We would've liked to summit El Montanon Ridge, explore further west into the island, kayak the Painted Cave, and perhaps snorkel in shallow waters to check out the marine ecosystem. We wanted to get lost in its beauty. Perhaps early summer when everything is green. Yet no matter which season, if you like wildlife viewing, majestic scenery and a sense of remoteness, visit Santa Cruz island.

Central Coast revisited

Early October is the most wonderful time to visit California's Central Coast. This time, we returned along with a handful of family and friends to get married.

One of our excursions was a trip down Highway 1 to Big Sur. On a clear and sunny day, the drive is nothing short of majestic. Take your time. Stop by at several of the lookout points and drink in the views of the great blue expanse of the Pacific Ocean, sparkling like a jewel under the sun. Feel the crisp, clean air whip through you. Marvel at the canyons and sheer bluffs that drop straight into the ocean. Hear the waves smash onto the rocks, on which several dozen seals lounge en masse.

After the wedding we drove some 100+ miles on Highway 1 all the way down to Morro Bay - through hairpin curves hugging the Santa Lucia Mountain Range and past state parks, lighthouses, coastal prairies and beaches. The drive was a bit long because we kept stopping at various lookout points. It's not the most efficient way to get to southern California, but it was a memorable once in a lifetime experience.