The world's longest cave system

Believe it or not, the longest known cave system in the world is in Mammoth Cave National Park in central Kentucky, about 85 miles from Louisville and Nashville. For a Midwesterner with national park aspirations, this is the closest I can get without getting on a plane.

In its first 15 years as a national park, only 40 miles of passageways had been mapped out at Mammoth Cave. Today, over 365 miles of passageways have been surveyed, although some geologists think there could be several hundred more waiting to be discovered.

The caves reside within layers of limestone and sandstone. The caves are constantly shaped by rainwater that travels below ground. Over time, water erodes the limestone and creates streams that eventually carve out new passageways.

For those who crave solace away from the crowd, you'll be disappointed. You can't see these caves without signing up for a tour. But go anyway, because it's fascinating.

We were there to spend a night in the backcountry, but we also signed up for a couple of tours. The Snowball Tour leads you to descend 200 stairs, pass a massive rock pile called the Rocky Mountains, and enter an elliptical-shaped passageway encrusted with white gypsum crystals. The gypsum crystals, we were told by the tour guides, indicated a dry cave. Aside from the steep stairs, the tour was otherwise flat and easy.

On the other hand, the Historic Tour was far more interesting. It's called historic because of its role in U.S. history - most of the saltpeter used in the War of 1812 (between the U.S. and British Empire) was mined here. This wet cave tour had double the stairs, and more diversity in the cave interior - you go from being in a "mammoth" domed passageway (carved by a river) to squeezing yourself into a tiny slot called the Fat Man's Misery.

There are plenty of tours to choose from depending on how much time and energy you have. The adventurous can don helmets, headlamps and knee pads to crawl and squeeze themselves through undeveloped passageways on the Introduction to Caving and Wild Cave Tours. (The Trog Tour is available for kids ages 8-12.)

Vibrant and sophisticated Barcelona

Sandwiched between two mountains and the Mediterranean Sea, Barcelona is an incredible city that's got something for everyone - a rich culture, thriving nightlife, natural beauty and active sports.

Its location on the Mediterranean makes it an ideal place to visit anytime of the year - February was a bit chilly but not bitingly cold.

We stayed in the Eixample district, considered one of the first examples of modern urban planning. We had a pleasant self-guided stroll through grid-patterned streets lined with Modernista architecture.

I have to admit that I did not appreciate Gaudi architecture until I saw it in real life. His whimsical buildings, including Casa Mila and Casa Battlo, are more fascinating than I had imagined.

Towering above the Eixample is Gaudi's Sagrada Familia, a jaw-dropping, neck-straining structure that's both strange and spiritual. Bright, airy and incredibly detailed on both the exterior and interior.

With an estimated 2.5 million visitors annually, the Sagrada Familia gets packed. Make sure to visit first thing in the morning before the busloads of tourists swarm the place.

More Gaudi art can be seen at Park Guëll, a nice garden situated on a hill overlooking the city. It's a bit outside the city core, but can be easily accessed by subway or bus. Everything is covered in colorful mosaics - from the serpent staircase to benches, fountains, walls and ceilings. It's a refreshing break from the bustling city, although there were plenty of tourists here as well.

Back in the city core, the famous La Rambla is a lively tourist strip that's perfect for people-watching...and pick-pocketing (so hold on to your purse).

 

On the Rambla is the Mercat de La Boqueria, considered one of the world's greatest markets. It was bursting at the seams with various smells, colors and textures - fresh seafood, colorful fruits and vegetables, cheeses, hams and an eye-popping array of spices, nuts and candies.

We were tempted to join the locals and tourists sipping wine and munching on tapas. Instead, we picnicked al fresco by the waterfront with jamon iberico, cheese, crackers and local beer.

The port area is a tourist and industrial mecca. At Port Vell, Maremagnum teemed with youth, lovers and families alike. Yacht clubs welcomed its sailors returning from a day's race on the water. (This is a world-class sailing community - the Barcelona World Race had just begun there less than two months prior).

The area is also an important trade zone and starting point for Mediterranean cruise ships. Nearby, you could ride a cable car up to Montjuïc for a spectacular, birds-eye view of the city.

A block off the Rambla, many surprises abound within the narrow alleys of the Barri Gotic neighborhood. We weaved through alleys of rush and quiet - from the bustling bookstores, cafes and restaurants to the quiet lane of apartments.

We stumbled upon a plaza with the biggest crowd we'd ever seen - thousands of onlookers watching castellers build multi-level human castles, topped off with a young child.

For dinner, we took Rick Steves' advice and went to Irati Taverna Basca in Barri Gotic, where we grazed on a buffet of Basque-style open-faced brochettes served on a toothpick, washed down with some vino Rioja. We paid based on the number of toothpicks on our plate. On our last night, we went to QuQu (Quasi Queviures) in the Eixample - a bit more on the touristy side (in fact, it had a multi-lingual menu that included Japanese) but the tapas selection was extensive.

Barcelona strikes the right balance of culture, history and modernity. It can be gritty and elegant at the same time. Breathing in the fresh, salty Mediterranean made us wish we could call this place home!